Seville enjoyed its heyday in the late 11th century under the rule of the Abbasid dynasty, and then later in the 12th century under the Almohads. But the city lost its aura in 1248 when it fell to Castilla's Catholic king Fernando III. In 1503 the city was awarded an official monopoly on Spanish trade with the Americas and became one of the world's largest, richest, and most cosmopolitan cities. The Rio Guadalquivir provided an access route from the Mediterranean, but when this silted up, the government office controlling commerce with the Americas was transferred to Cadiz and Seville went into decline. You just have to enter any church in Seville to see the wealth generated from the Americas.
Today, the most dominant landmark in Seville is the colossal Gothic cathedral; the third largest cathedral in the world. The cathedral was built on the site of the great mosque between 1434 and 1517. It is packed full with paintings (by Zurbaran, Murillo, Goya, and others), sculptures, and items of the finest quality with much dating to the 1600's. The Giralda (bell tower) offers a fine view over the city, but do beware that the bells still chime! The Giralda incorporates the mosque's original minaret at its base with a Gothic-baroque belfry. The immense size of the cathedral can be appreciated from a view from the Tore del Oro on the banks of the Rio Guadalquivir (see photo below right).
The cathedral houses the imposing tomb of Christopher Columbus, without whom the wealth of Spain would not (may not) have existed.
The cathedral's main focal point is the Capilla Mayor, a magnificent gold-plated altarpiece depicting various scenes in the life of Christ, and produced by a Flemish artist Peter Dancart. It is well protected by an elaborate screen and fills the full height of the central nave (42 m or 138 ft). Everything about this cathedral is on a grand scale.
And while Granada has its Alhambra, Seville has its must-see Real Alcazar. And just like in Granada, the Real Alcazar of Seville also has its delicate Moorish buildings and beautiful gardens to contrast with the more solid buildings of Catholic Spain.
The Palacio de Las Duenas, a 15th century palace and home to the Duchess of Alba, was of a more personable scale and is one of the most visited sites in Seville. The Duchess was fond of bull fighting, flamenco, and gardens, all of which were represented in the palace.
While the churches house many significant works of art, there are even more in the Museo de Bellas Artes. This museum houses a collection of Spanish and Sevillan paintings and sculptures from the 15th to the 20th centuries. The entrance hall was lined with beautiful tiles drawing you into the older religious-based images before moving up the floors to the more modern works of art. This was an unexpected treasure trove of stunning artworks in a stunning setting. The painting of the death of a bullfighter had to be best viewed from another room as it was so large!
The Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes was another gem of a museum. The building was a former hospice for priests and contains a collection of 17th century paintings by Diego Velazquez, but we were not allowed to take photos of these.
The Hospital de la Caridad is yet another splendidly adorned building with a beautiful gilded chapel. Originally this building had been a hospice for the poor. As we were leaving the museum, the courtyard filled up with colourfully-dressed ladies getting ready for a photoshoot, so I had to stop and take a photo myself.
Overlooking the Plaza del Salvador is the Iglesia Collegial del Divino Salvador, a baroque church built between 1674 and 1712, and it is filled with extravagant gold altarpieces.
History, both old and new, is everywhere in Seville. You have the Trianna Bridge and a replica of the Victoria ship which would have brought the riches of the Americas to Seville. You have the Torre del Oro (now the maritime museum) guarding the Rio Guadalquivir. And you have the Alameda de Hercules to remind you of the 2000 year-old Roman contribution to this city. And then you get right up to date with the Setia Sevilla building. This is a city which can keep one occupied for days!
